Winemakers often mix fresh water and sugar with leftover grape skins to make a second-run wine. The Italian grappa is distilled out of such second-runs. There’s some flavor in the pressed stuff, and yeast. You get a light, quickly-finished wine out of it. But I do something with grape pomace that makes my fellow home-brewers wince. I take a bucketful of those squashed skins and mix them with other fruit juices. This mixture ferments and becomes a fruity wine that’s ready to drink in a few months.  I’ll mix peach nectar, goiaba, or pomegranate, or apple-cranberry juice with leftovers of Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon or Reisling.  Result: delicious. Just off-dry, a dark rose that should be chilled before drinking. Yet the other winemakers grit their teeth when I describe the process. These are the same guys that refuse to sanitize their equipment; I don’t get why mixing juices grosses them out. You get a bigger bang for your buck and an entirely new, original, delicious wine.

Today I bottled a gallon of Merlot with Apple/Cranberry juice. It was a problem, refraining from empying one of those bottles by myself. But you judge how it looks:

And sitting in a spill of sunshine, it looked so pretty…

 

Leda Meredith’s book, Botany, Ballet, and Dinner From Scratch, has some wonderful recipes. One was vinegar flavored with garlic chive flowers. Now I have a handful of chive flowers in my windowsill pot. While I usually just let them go to seed, because I like discovering new little seedlings in unexpected places come next spring, making vinegar from them sounded attractive.

So I took these garlic chive flowers

and did this to them:

and now have this vinegar.

Leda’s book includes recipes for making your own vinegar. You go, Leda!

 

Three Russian guys run the fresh-meat section of my neighborhood supermarket. Avi is the senior. He is a tall, slow-moving man with tired brown eyes and a heavy grey moustache.  Reuven, short, dark, and restless, wears a kippa and is an expert on the kashrut followed by all our ethnic groups. Sometimes I see him sitting outside the building, smoking a cigarette nervously. Serge is handsome and a little sardonic, with a gold loop in one ear. He likes to discuss kitchen equipment, becoming almost lyrical on the subject of knives. They joke and comment among themselves in Russian, and nothing that goes on in the supermarket escapes them. For some reason they call me “Miri,” which nobody else does.

I enjoy exchanging a word with all of them, but Avi is my pal. We talk recipes, commiserate over each other’s health tsuris, wish each other a “Shabbat Shalom” when I’m in the supermarket on a Friday. It’s become my habit to give him a bottle of my home-made wine every year on his birthday. If I forget his birthday, he’ll remind me, no problem. I know his taste: he likes wine to be on the sweet side.

So this year I took a bottle of my Summer Fruit wine around to the supermarket. This is a wine made with peaches, apples, pears, the odd bag of cherries, apricots, or strawberries that’s been sitting in the freezer. When the wine is ready, I add a tiny bottle of rose essence and let it sit for another couple of weeks. Each batch improves as my skills improve, and this year it was very good indeed. Kind of on the strong side, though. I had been careless about gauging the alcohol by volume, but figured it was around 15%.

Well, I gave it to Avi, who thanked me and put the bottle away quickly. The following week, I stopped by the fresh meat counter, and the three of them were there, smiling at me. I looked from one to the other. Actually, they were grinning.

“What is it? Something funny about me today?”

Reuven and Serge said nothing, but got on with their chopping and wiping spaces down, smiling all the while. Avi put on a mock-solemn face and said,

“You don’t know what a bomb you dropped here, Miri.”

I was startled. “For Heaven’s sake…was it my wine?”

“It was good. And strong! It must have had 17% abv. I opened the bottle here and we all drank some – next thing, we were all standing around laughing. The customers kept asking what was so funny. We couldn’t exactly tell them we’d been drinking on the job.”

The two others smirked. I rolled my eyes.

Next year, I’m baking Avi a cake.

 

I had meant to post about things needing lots of photos, but there seems to be a problem with uploading media tonight. Meantime, I offer this poem. A word of explanation: gat means an ancient winepress.

Highway 6 slid away under our wheels and

Night dropped down.

We drove on to Beit Shemesh;

Ahead a storm gathered.

Fat drops spattered on the windshield.

From the passenger seat I watched

Long white legs of lightning stalking the sky

Between the rising Judean hills.

Thunder clapped: Attention!

The incandescent hills replied: Behold us.

My companion said:

“My hi-tech job is killing me.

I want to sell the house,

Give up the job,

Plant a vineyard in Emek Jezreel

And grow old there with my wife.”

The windshield wipers swished.

I sat silent. I too have my dreams.

In a parking lot:

Six bearded men in kippot

Standing around a grape crusher.

Their wives in apartments upstairs

Putting the children to bed

Me, standing to one side.

“She makes wine,” someone explained.

They shrugged .

In flat boxes lie the dusty black clusters;

Succulent round berries

Packed tightly on their stems.

Heft a whole one in your hand before you

Hoist a box-full and dump them

Into the metal rectangle

Where inside, a lathe starts turning.

Crushed fruit, seeds exposed

Bleeding purple juice

Streams forth richly, spilling;

Fills our blue plastic barrels.

From out there in the Judean hills,

A gust of cool, wet wind

Carries sharp odors of wild herbs.

It makes me turn away from

The business of the crush,

Turn my eyes towards those dark hills.

The men haul more boxes forward

Tumble grapes into the crusher

Under the electric light.

The Judean hills press in a little closer.

I know that

Lightning walks their dark terraces.

Over there, great white flickers suddenly part the night,

Reveal pines and brush swaying obedient,

Impartially reveal the ancient winepress.

Two basins carved into the living white rock,

A narrow carved channel between. Gat.

Who imagines now

The joyful harvests of ancient times?

They must have walked singing

Straight from vineyard to gat

In late afternoon, in September:

Men and women with tanned arms

Bearing baskets woven of green olive twigs

Baskets full of black fruit.

In the upper basin, our fathers crushed their grapes

Trampling, they must have shouted and laughed.

The rich juice flowed down its stone channel –

Those waiting by the lower basin

Rushed to fill up clay jugs.

Later, tired and quiet,

They must have walked home in the dark;

Stashed their jugs away inside a cool cave.

Nothing but cold water pours down the stone basins tonight.

The white rock, once stained purple

Sleeps another thousand years.

All the same, we still make wine.

“There you are, Rebbetzin, your lot is done.”

We pack our barrels into the car,

Turn around in the parking lot and start heading home.

I look back. In the circle of light,

The bearded men by the crusher

Are still pouring grapes in.

Parking-lot gat.

 
Bold as brass

Bold as brass

 

I checked my raspberry wine and found that I have two gallons of raspberry vinegar. Ack! Quickly, I removed it to a warm place in the kitchen where it can finish its transformation, far from the carboys so decoratively sitting around the living room. Well, as French winemakers say, God loves to make vinegar. When you’re making wine in an apartment with minimal temperature control, you have to expect an occasional failure. But my efforts have produced some (I must say) delicious Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon blends as well as good wines of apricots, strawberries, pomelos, even raspberries. So what happened here? Well, the airlock stopping the mouth of carboy (fermentation vessel) was crooked – probably just enough air and maybe a fruit fly got into the fluid and spoiled my drink. (That airlock on that particular carboy was always getting tangled up in my skirt as I swept past. ) Raspberry shrub, anyone?

Looking into recipes for that old-fashioned drink, I see that people first steeped their raspberries in vinegar for several days, added 75% of the strained liquid’s weight in sugar, and boiled the mix till a syrup formed, about 15 minutes. They then flavored cold water with the red, sweet-sour liquid: recipes say anywhere from 1 tablespoon per glass to 1/3 of the glass as syrup. Guess it was a matter of taste. In Colonial America, they liked it sweet. Since my raspberries have obligingly gone ahead and made vinegar in my modern Israeli setting, I believe I’ll take a liter or so of it and simmer it to a syrup with sugar. Maybe it will taste good in soda water. Those old recipes all say it’s refreshing, tasty, good for a sore throat. I mean, that’s two gallons of raspberry vinegar, folks.

My raspberry wines have been good in the past, but expensive to make as the berries aren’t local. I bought frozen imported ones, convinced that the wine justified the fruit’s high price. With this little disaster, I tightened my resolve to stick to local ingredients as much as possible. On my shelves are luscious food-and-travel books by authors sensuously eating and cooking their ways through the Mediterranean. They make me start dreaming, feeling hungry. How nice it would be to make some of those recipes myself…imagine, chestnut-flour cake…but I pull up short as I remember that all those delicious peasant foods of Italy and France are based on raw materials grown or foraged close to home. Israel also has olives and wine; abundant, fresh, flavorful produce; and a great mix of ethnic groups from which to cull recipes. No great amount of chestnuts, though, except around Tu B’Shvat.

We do import a large part of our food – most our flour comes from imported wheat, for example. Few can claim to be real locavores in our small country, and I frankly think people don’t give the issue a minute’s thought. But I’ve come under the influence of Leda Meredith’s passionate crusade to reduce carbon transmission in our planet by eating local, seasonal foods – see her 250-mile diet. Meantime, I think I’ll concentrate on bottling the liqueurs of apricot and strawberry that I put up two months ago.

Mimi

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