Visit to the Buffalo Farm

Another Israeli Kitchen/Baroness Tapuzina adventure

Every once in a while Baroness Tapuzina, Mr. B. and I go out adventuring in the realm of food and wine. Last time, we went on the wine trail through the Judean Hills.  A week ago, we drove south to the unique Buffalo Farm in Moshav Bitzaron. There the Treister family raises water buffalo – a different breed from the American bison.

Water buffaloes and their products were declared kosher in Israel some two years ago.

There’s a nice little petting zoo there. We greeted this lovely mare and her colt

and I actually petted a camel, who was was smiling in a friendly way.

I’ve never been all that fond of camels, being under the impression that they smelled awful. Mr. B. snorted at that and informed me that camels are quite nice creatures if they’re in a good mood. He himself rode to the Pyramids on camel-back, he said. I was suspicious, but the camel knelt down by the fence, looking as if he wanted petting. So I petted, much the way I pet dogs. His (or her) fur was short and soft, and smelled fine. He closed his great eyes and seemed to be enjoying. I guess everyone wants to feel loved.

On our way to the Main Attraction, two superior and fussy geese came waddling up to inspect us.

They didn’t like the looks of Mr. B., and attacked his legs. I would have had a hissy fit, myself, but Mr. B. just laughed and shook them off. The Baroness and I awaited no further developments, but skedaddled towards a little shed-like place

that hides, behind a modest front, a factory where buffalo milk is transformed into…

the most delicious cheeses. Mozzarella, of course, but also Camembert- and Parmesan-style, hard cheese marinated in wine, blue-veined cheese, Boursin, and many others.

And yoghurts, mascarpone, sour cream, butter, creme fraiche, sweetened cheeses better than ice cream, even chocolate milk and ice coffee – the best and richest I’ve ever had.

Buffalo milk! Who would have thought?

The farm is 70 years old, founded by the present owner’s parents, who raised cows. Eventually the second generation, Chagai and Irit Treister, saw that the Israeli market was over-loaded with milk products. To keep the farm profitable, they decided to produce a high-quality artisanal food with an “old timey” feel. Being experts in raising milk cattle to start with, it took only a shift in focus to settle on buffalo milk. Milk from water buffalo, they learned, is thicker, sweeter, and richer than cow’s, goat’s, or sheep’s milk. It’s higher in calcium, proteins, and healthful fat than any other milk. In winter, the fat percentage can go up to 8%. Imagine what cheese such milk can make.

But nobody in Israel understood buffaloes. Water buffaloes have existed in Israel since ancient times, and were once common in the swamps of northern Israel, but sickness and neglect reduced the herds. Only a few wild creatures remain in those areas now, gathered into nature reserves. How do buffaloes behave, what are their needs? What do buffalo eat, how to care for and breed them? Not one person knew, not even one veterinarian. The Triesters went to the University of Milan in Italy, where they were received warmly at the Department of Agriculture. There they received the education and training they needed to raise their cattle.

Through the University, they acquired the first calves to raise on the farm. Their connection with the University of Milan remains an important part of their work. Lab reports are sent there, professors come to visit and advise.

The cattle are carefully bred to keep the herd genetically superior. Even the Italians don’t do this. They allow the cattle to breed as they will. The Triesters claim that their system of selective breeding produces milk superior to any other in the world.

Later I spoke by phone to the Treister’s daughter, Neta, who handles marketing for the farm and who kindly supplied all the details I’m recounting here. She told me an interesting thing about Italians and water buffaloes: Water buffaloes are not native to Italy. The Italians are convinced that their original buffaloes came from Israel during the Roman occupation of the Holy Land. They see returning the buffalo to Israel almost as a religious duty. They’re thrilled to be part of the project. The Ingathering of the Exiles includes animals, I see…

Neta mentioned another interesting facet of buffalo milk: it is tolerated by many who can’t consume cow’s milk. Some claim that drinking it helps them control psoriasis, eczema, and irritable bowl syndrome. I can’t vouch for that, but would be interested to know of people who have actually had such benefit. The buffalo eat only natural dry foods and, having naturally high immune systems,  receive no antibiotics nor vaccinations.

All the cheeses are made by hand in the traditional artisanal way. Also in the spirit of tradition, most of the employees are family members. The Triester’s hope is that their grandchildren will continue their enterprise into a third generation of dedication to the art. In the meantime, I can vouch for the deliciousness of all the cheeses I sampled and bought. Here’s some Camembert style…

and some hard cheese marinated in wine…

some Parmesan…

…and some butter I brought home. It reminds me of a story told by an admirer of Elizabeth David’s, who once found the famous food writer sitting at her kitchen table, gazing entranced at a pat of butter on a white plate. “How beautiful,” she said dreamily.

I understand that.

I had intended to serve only latkehs at my Chanukah party…but you know Jewish mothers. Apart from latkehs and toppings of  buffalo sour cream, applesauce, and chutney, there was tossed salad; a platter of sliced raw vegetables with guacamole and pureed roasted tomatoes for dipping; mushroom quiche, fresh Anadama bread, and plenty of wine. Nobody thought they could stuff in one more strip of bell pepper or even half a spiced cashew, but when the platter of these cheeses arrived, everybody discovered a little more room for the Cheese That Stands Alone.