When it comes to latkehs, I’m just old fashioned. It’s a strain, coming up with exciting new latkeh variations each year, and some of the recipes I’ve been viewing online show it. Beet latkehs? They’re all over the Net this year. OK – it’s all good food, and of course a person eats what pleases her. Some recipes do look tasty, like the ones combining celery root with potatoes. Last year I made curried butternut squash latkehs, and zuchinni fritters, myself. But although the family is polite and willingly tastes whatever variation I come up with, what they’re really waiting for is those plump brown ovals, thin and crisp at the edges and redolent of onions. Pass the sour cream and applesauce, please.

It’s a yearly treat. Has to be, because it takes all year to work off the calories. Is it worth the work and the smell in the house and the rising numbers on the bathroom scale?

Well, it is, if you value tradition. I love to see my family and friends  seated at the table on a Chanukah night, and how they smile as the first sizzling batch of  latkehs is set down. I know that my grandchildren will always remember Grandma’s latkehs as the best, the only latkehs in the world. I know that as years pass, more and more family memories will emerge, and the smell of grated, fried potatoes and onions will bring back the room and its furniture, the way the light fell on our faces, things we said, how old each one was.  I’ll always cherish memory a picture of a very little boy struggling out of his mom’s arms to stick his fingers in the applesauce, and his mom, my daughter, laughing and holding him back. How will they remember me?

Once again, the old chain of association: food and family, food and love.

So I’ll probably try out another new latkeh or two this year. I saw an interesting corn and bell pepper recipe… and I never have done the cottage cheese variation. I know we’ll eat them, and like them. But the main dish, the real thing – is that old-fashioned potato latkeh.

Happy Chanukah!

Four Chanuka Recipes:

• Traditional Potato Latkehs
• Applesauce (and applesauce oatmeal muffins)
• About Ghee
• Sfenj
• Curried Butternut Squash Latkehs
• Zuke Fritters