image-orange-rolls

Two years! The first post here was published on August 25, 2008.

I started writing a little memoir paragraph about the events in my life over the past two years, but deleted it. What I really need to say is this:

I hope that I interest and amuse you. I hope my recipes make you hungry, and inspire your cooking. When I type a post and hit the “Publish” button, I know you’ll be reading it.

Thank you, reader, for being here.

Many of you know my face, since I published a photo of myself on The Great Brooklyn Nosh post.  Some have told me, by private email or here in the comments, that they feel they know me through my writings. But I’ll only ever know a handful of those who read this blog. That’s OK. In a way I didn’t expect when I first started typing out my recipes and thoughts, you’ve become a part of me.

I’m curious to see where we’ll be going as Israeli Kitchen unravels towards the future – curious to know how far we’ll go together, and what discoveries we’ll make on the way. As long as you and I are meditating on food, cooking together, and enjoying it – I’m game for more years of this journey.

…And you?

image-chicken-almond-crust

Okay, light eaters – here’s another easy dish for the Rosh HaShanah table.This features the juicier dark meat of chicken, covered in a nutty, herby, almond crust to protect it while baking. I fixed it for Shabbat so I could photograph it for you – but never said so to the Little One, who ate two.

It takes 10 minutes to prepare and about half an hour in the oven. Figure on 1-2 pieces per serving, depending on people’s appetites. The adults ate one each and were satisfied, but hungry growing young people in your house may want more.

The first thing is to get deboned chicken thighs (in Israel, Pargiot). The next thing is to prepare one bowl for the beaten eggs and another bowl for the crumb/almond mix.

image-chicken-thighs-almond-crust(6)
Then…but I’m giving it away. It’s so fast to make, it’s fun.

Chicken Thighs in an Almond Crust

adapted from Al HaShulchan magazine, July 2009 edition

8 portions

Ingredients:

8 deboned chicken thighs

100 grams – 1/2 cup sliced, blanched almonds

200 grams – 1-1/4 cup dry bread crumbs

2 eggs

1/4 teaspoon soy sauce

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1/4 teaspoon crushed, dried thyme

1/2 teaspoon salt

freshly-ground black pepper

olive oil to drizzle

Method:

Preheat oven to 180° C – 350° F

1. In one bowl, mix the almonds and bread crumbs.

2. In the other bowl, beat the egs with the soy sauce, crushed garlic, salt, and some pepper.

3. Dip both sides of the chicken thighs in the egg, then in the crumb mixture.

4. Roll up and place each piece of chicken on a baking tray lined with baking paper. If lots of the crumb mixture has fallen off the pieces, just pat some back on.

5. Drizzle with olive oil. Cover all loosely with a sheet of foil. Don’t tuck the edges in. You want to keep the almond crust from burning, but to bake, not poach, the chicken.

6. Bake 30 minutes. The crust should be golden and the chicken tender.

Note: This dish reheats nicely on a hotplate or in a dry skillet over a flame-tamer. Keep the chicken tightly covered with foil when reheating, so it doesn’t dry out.

image-chicken-thighs-almond-crust

image-baked-chicken-thighs

image=moroccan-carrot-salad

How about Rosh HaShanah Lite this year? The High Holidays are starting off right before Shabbat, so we’re looking at a three days of festive eating. But does it have to be three days of heavy eating? It gets to the point where all you want to do is lie down and digest, instead of putting your mind to the state of your soul.

We all have cherished holiday recipes, foods that the family looks forward to and whose taste is inextricably tangled up with memories of holidays past. Even if they’re infused with fat and sugar, we’ll serve them.  But the meal can remain reasonably light if only one such dish is placed on the table, and if plenty of attractive salads and cooked vegetables are served.

In the spirit of lighter eating, then, here’s an easy carrot salad made tangy with lemon and pungent with cumin. It’s part of every mezze in Israeli restaurants and Sephardic homes.

Moroccan Carrot Salad

adapted from Saffron Shores by Joyce Goldstein

serves 6 as an appetizer, 4 as a side dish

Ingredients:

4 medium or 3 large carrots, peeled

1 clove garlic

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon sweet paprika

1/8 teaspoon cayenne flakes

2 tablespoons olive oil

salt

Method:

1. Cut the carrots into thick slices; peel the garlic clove and crush it with the side of a heavy knife.

2. Have a saucepan with salted boiling water ready; cook the carrots and garlic in it for 10 minutes or until the carrot is tender.

3. Drain the carrots and garlic – save the cooking water for rice or cooking another vegetable, or use it as part of the liquid in stock. Place them in a deep bowl.

4. Immediately, season them with the lemon juice, spices, and olive oil, stirring gently. Add salt little by little, to taste.

Serve at chilled or at room temperature.

ingredients-moroccan-carrot-salad

image-fruit-stuffed-turkey

In my last post, I promised some festive recipes for Rosh HaShanah that sit easy on the stomach. Turkey breast, stuffed with dried fruit and nuts, and sometimes rice or couscous, fits the ticket. This is how you do it.

Buy, for 6 servings, one-half boneless turkey breast. Either ask the butcher to cut a pouch into it, or do it yourself at home. It’s surprisingly easy. The half-breast resembles a longish triangle. Insert a long, sharp knife into the widest part and carefully, not to poke holes in the flesh along the way, just slide the knife along till you have a pouch. Move it from side to side gently to enlarge the opening. The meat is very tender and will readily tear, so go slowly. That’s all there is to it; the turkey breast is ready to be stuffed.

image-cut-pocket-turkey

Something to remember about cooking a turkey breast: unless you get it with the skin on, it will dry out in a blink, so  protect it by using in a roasting bag, or make a bag of foil for it.

And before it goes in the oven, splash some good olive oil all over it to keep it moist, then season it with paprika, salt and pepper, and your favorite herbs. A little white wine or cognac, or soy sauce, or chicken soup, or a tablespoon of each in any combination, adds flavor and keeps the moisture factor up.

Turkey Breast Stuffed With Fruit and Nuts

serves 6

Ingredients:

1 half turkey breast

1/2 cup mixed, chopped dried apricots, cranberries, raisins

1/2 cup mixed chopped nuts: walnuts, pecans, hazelnuts, pine nuts

1 small onion, chopped

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme or 1 teaspoon fresh thyme

1/2 teaspoon salt

freshly ground black pepper to taste

optional: 1/2 cup cooked rice

2 tablespoons white or light red wine, or 2 tablespoons cognac, or chicken soup, or a mixture of 2 teaspoons soy sauce with any of them

paprika

an additional 1/2 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons olive oil

A sprig of rosemary or two small bay leaves

A handful of scallions

1  peeled and slightly mashed garlic clove

Method:

1. Mix the fruit, nuts, optional rice, onion, salt, pepper, and wine. Stuff the mixture into the turkey breast.

2. Sprinkle paprika and additional 1/2 teaspoon salt all over the breast. Pour the olive oil over the breast and spread it on all sides. If any stuffing falls out, just scoop it up and place it under the breast when baking it.

3. Place the stuffed, seasoned breast in the roasting bag or in a tent of foil. Add the wine and the fresh herbs.

image-seasoned-turkey-breast

Close and puncture the roasting bag as per instructions. Or make the foil tent. Place the breast on a long strip of foil; pick up the edges of the foil at right and left and bring them together, pinching them at the top to make a tent-like package. Pinch one side closed but leave the other side open for ventilation so that you get roasted, not poached meat.

Bake at 350°F, 180°C for 1 hour. Check after one hour for doneness. If the meat still seems too pink, bake it another 15 minutes. Once you’re sure it’s done, remove from the oven at once. Let the meat rest for 10 minutes before serving.

Now: let’s say you were too nervous with the knife and wound up making huge holes all over the meat. Never mind. Slice it all the way open and just stuff the stuffing inside like this:

image-stuffed-turkey breast

Fold one half over the other and press it down.

clamp it down

If it’s really flopping open, tie it up with kitchen string. The cooking juices will seal the pieces together again and the cooked dish will look like the photo at the top.

Here are slices of a turkey breast I stuffed with the optional rice:

slices of stuffed turkey breast

This is excellent cold, too.

Did I hear it right on the radio? That this year has been the hottest in recorded history? My  Finnish friend Yaelian sought relief from Israel’s dry and dusty summer on a vacation home, only to swelter in an unheard-of heat wave there. Hot in Finland… sharav in Israel.

The radio asks us not to run power-guzzling appliances till 5:00 PM.  I open windows and push the thought of air-conditioning out of my mind. Yeuw, it’s hot in here.

All that, then a reader’s plea for hot-weather recipes. It made me want to sit down and drink a large gin and tonic, with plenty of ice in it. Only I’ve banished gin and tonic as a calorie-cutting measure. So I had to sit down and think, instead. And this is what I think:

Jewish cooks worldwide are probably gritting their teeth in anticipation of this year’s 3-day Rosh HaShanah/Shabbat extravaganza in this Year of Climate Change. But even in hot weather, we like hot food. Jewish custom indeed demands at least one hot dish at a festive meal. Some folks drink a cup of tea to be exempt, but most of us enjoy at least a little something hot, no matter what the thermometer reads. The difference to our comfort is keeping it light.

I suggest that over the long, hot holiday, at least two meals be dairy. Lots of salads. Think fish. Chicken or turkey instead of beef or lamb. Cholent? Only for masochists.

You’ll have seen most of these recipes in other roundups, but they’ve been chosen for easy cooking and lightness.  Next posts, some new suggestions and recipes.

Dairy and Fish

Polenta. Filling, but not heavy. To make the meal festive, top the polenta with a fancier-than-usual sauce. Serve steamed broccoli on the side. Drink a chilled rosé with it – lemonade for the kids.

Fish Baked in Coconut Milk

Ground Meat

Mafroum. Okay, it’s a patchkerai. But if you A) use ground turkey instead of beef, it’s not heavy; and B) add a plain steamed vegetable, you have an entire, satisfying, and festive meal.

Poultry

Roast Chicken with Figs. If figs have gone out of season by the holidays, substitute whole, small, sweet pears.

Tajine of Turkey with Dried Fruit. Serve this with rice or couscous.

Curried Turkey Salad. I often serve this on hot Shabbat afternoons. Cold and colorful, sweet/savory, and yum. Easily made, and only needs rice to accompany it.

Vegetables

Eggplant and Tahini Salad. Also known as eggplant carpaccio.

Majadra: lentils and rice. A good side dish, but for a dairy meal, serve it as the main dish, with two or three favorite cheeses and a big salad.

Peperonata. Sautéed bell peppers with fresh herbs. An unusual salad or relish.

Sweet Potatoes Roasted in Date Syrup. What’s good on Passover is good on Rosh HaShanah, too.

Crisp-Skinned Potatoes. Lacking baby potatoes, use 1 medium potato per person, cutting each into 4 pieces. The potatoes, that is.

Zucchini Fritters. Like anything fried, best eaten as soon as done. But if you lay them a shallow platter lined with paper towels, they stay crisp on a hot plate till dinner time.

Cake and Cookies

Honey Cake. What else?…

Tahini Cookies. Easy-peasy to make. Delicious to munch. Make a lot.

Light Desserts

Pears in Wine. There’s always a lot of wine around the house at this time of year. Use some to poach these subtly-spiced pears.

Fruit Soup

Well, have I convinced anyone to forgo beef? Or even break with tradition and serve dairy a few times?

Stay tuned, more recipes with a hot holiday in mind coming up.

image-spinach-mushroom-quiche

Leafy greens are one of my favorite foods. But not that of the Little One. To get them into her, I have to get sneaky and combine them with a buttery crust, preferably some mushrooms, and cheese. She thinks it’s a dairy meal, I call it vegetarian. So what does she get?

Quiche.

Actually I’m embarrassed about this quiche. It’s delectable to eat – looks pretty on the table – satisfies my Jewish Mother Feed’em Requirements and there’s never a scrap left over. But Elizabeth David, food writer whose scholarly, elegant works I’ve been re-reading, would turn her nose up at it. Quiche, according to the late, great Ms. David, real quiche, needs only cream and eggs, and “a small amount of streaky bacon.” No cheese. No vegetables of any description.

image washed spinach leaves

Oh dear. Well, times have changed. The classic Quiche Lorraine is still a thing of wonder (minus the bacon for kosher folk), but the cheese-and-veg-loaded tart is accepted by all as quiche too. So here mine is.

Years ago I found that the basic crust recipe from Molly Katzen’s The Enchanted Broccoli Forest works best for me. I don’t even get the food processor out to mix it up. I just rub the butter into the salty flour, scooping up more flour from the bowl to release any butter clinging to my fingers. I like the friction of grainy flour in my hands. The work relaxes me. But for those who don’t like that idea, just whirl your crust ingredients in the food processor.

Spinach and Mushroom Quiche

Ingredients for Crust:

1/4 cup cold butter, diced

1 cup flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

water or milk – by tablespoons, as needed*

Method:

1. Rub the butter into the flour, or put the flour into the food processor and add the diced butter – till the mixture looks like coarse sand. Add the salt.

2. Add the liquid, one tablespoon at a time. * Note about the liquid for crust: Molly Katzen’s recipe calls for “up to 3 tablespoons.” That’s for American flour. Working with Israeli flour, I always need up to 5 tablespoons for the dough to hold together. Go slowly and stop adding liquid as soon as the dough holds together.

3. Make a ball of the dough, wrap it up in plastic wrap or a clean plastic bag, and chill it for an hour in the fridge.

Meantime, prepare your filling.

Ingredients for Filling:

2 cups fresh or frozen spinach

1 medium onion, chopped

1/2 cup sliced mushrooms

3 eggs, beaten

1 cup milk, buttermilk, or loose sour cream

salt and pepper to taste

Firm cheese to slice and lay over crust – about 200 grams – 7 oz. or 3/4 cup * Israelis: I use  Hemed cheese. Katzen recommends Swiss or Cheddar as this first cheese.

1/2 cup another, mild cheese, for filling. Brie is good, but any mild cheese is good too.

Method:

1. If using fresh spinach, wash it and steam it quickly in its own rinse water. Add no salt. If using thawed-out frozen spinach, steam it with no added water or salt. Chop it up coarsely.

Cooked, chopped spinach

2. Chop the onion. Sauté it in a little olive oil or butter till it’s beginning to soften. Slice the mushrooms and add them to the pan. Sauté the vegetables till the mushrooms start to release their liquid. Season with salt and pepper. Remove the pan from the fire.

3. Beat the eggs in a large bowl. Add the milk and beat again. Add a pinch of salt and another of pepper. Set the bowl aside – in the fridge if the kitchen is hot.

4. Slice the first cheese. Chop the second cheese into large dice.

cubes yellow cheese
Assemble the Quiche:

1. Roll the dough out and fit it into your baking pan. I usually place a sheet of baking paper on the pan first because I hate to scrub out baking pans. But it’s not as pretty.

2. Fit the slices of firm cheese over the raw crust.

raw crust with cheese

3. Mix the sautéed vegetables into the spinach; mound all on top of the crust.

vegetables in quiche crust

4. Pour the beaten egg/milk mixture over and into the vegetables. Dot the cubed cheese all over.

quiche filled with custard too

Transfer (carefully) to the oven, pre-heated to 375° F -190°C. Bake 35-40 minutes.

Finished quiche, sideways

This dairy, vegetarian dish is light yet filling – comfortable for lunch or dinner these hot days. Keep it in mind for Shavuot, too. Enjoy!

If you’re searching for holiday meal ideas, go to the Pre-Holiday Kosher Cooking Carnival. No posts of mine there this time, but stay tuned – a reader has asked me for my thoughts on cool dishes for a hot holiday.

image-fresh-figs-wine

Did I say that I get loopy over figs?  I’m still not done with them this season. Poached in a syrup based on wine, and perfumed with spices, figs make an unusual, light dessert all by themselves. Usually I serve poached figs with a dollop of cold whipped cream, sweetened mascarpone, or honeyed yoghurt, but for a lactose-free dessert, sometimes I’ll omit the dairy, placing a light cookie on the side of the plate to dip into the delicious syrup.

Fresh Figs Poached in Spiced Wine

4 servings

Ingredients:

2  cups semi-sweet white or light red wine

1 cup sugar

rind of one lemon, without the white pith

2 sprigs of fresh thyme

1 small bay leaf

1 small stick cinnamon

8 whole, fresh, juicy figs, with stems

Method:

1. Put the wine, sugar, and spices in a medium-sized pan. Cook it over medium heat for 10 minutes to form a light syrup.

2. Gently place the figs inside the syrup. Turn the heat down and cook the figs, uncovered, for 10 minutes. They will change color as they cook. Turn each fig over to cook evenly.

3. Cook a further 20 minutes, turning over once more.

Remove from heat, allow to cool, covered, and put in the fridge to chill for at least an hour.

crowd2

It was as I’d anticipated. Jerusalem, with its unique energy. Cool night air, lots of happy people milling around with wine glasses in their hands, gravel crunching underfoot, a good band, and the aroma of wine everywhere.

pouring wine

But…nobody walked up to me and asked, “Are you Mimi?” I had to give all my chocolates away to total strangers instead of to readers. I gave some to Baroness Tapuzina and Mr. B.T. too. We’d all driven up together and parked under the same friendly olive tree as last year.

And did I drink as much as last year? I hate to be a party pooper, but I had sips of this and that, amounting only to one glassful. I guess it’s because unlike last year, there was no full moon. Or I’m one year older and wiser.

But the music was fine, and the wine mighty fine, and altogether, we had a pretty good time.

band

We warbled along with the singer’s  slow, jazzy “Guantanamera.”

There was an artist drawing caricatures.
caricature

And sushi, although not being fond of it, I didn’t check its kashrut (or lack of).

Sushi

There was a big stand with delicious cheeses for sale by the platter (you chose how many of each you wanted) or by weight.

cheese table

And wine, wine, lovely wine. All the good kosher wineries were well represented, plus a few that aren’t kosher and some that will be by next year. Guess the religious crowd has caught on to the taste of good wine, and the merchants have caught on to a profitable new market. There were noticeably more religious folks present this year than last.

image Or HaGanuz winery

The crowd was happy and peaceful. Most folks came with friends and circulated around in sociable clumps. At no time were there friction, loud voices, or anything resembling unpleasantness. Maybe the NIS60 entrance fee filters out aggressive types, or the cultured location spooks them.

By 11:00, the event closed and we regretfully left Jerusalem, clutching our big new wineglasses. I washed and put mine away next to last year’s. I hope there will be a third and a fourth and more, in peaceful years to come.

It doesn’t seem like a year ago. The Jerusalem wine festival at the Israel Museum occurs again this week, from Tuesday the 3rd through Thursday the 5th of August. Gates open at 7:00 PM and the tastings go on till 11:00.

I’ll be there on Thursday night. If you recognize me, just ask, “Are you Mimi?” and see if I turn around with a big smile to ask your name in turn. Tell me you’re one of my readers, and you’ll be rewarded with a chocolate bonbon.

Thursday evening at the Israel Museum. And I’ll be with friends: Baroness Tapuzina and Mr. B.T. They’ll be happy to meet you too.

Hope to see you there!

Related Posts with Thumbnails
© 2010 Israeli Kitchen Suffusion WordPress theme by Sayontan Sinha